I didn't used to carry ALL the time. I do now. It was too cumbersome, too bulky, too heavy, too much to think about, and too difficult to carry all the time. Therefore, I only carried occasionally.
In the last few months it's become quite clear, and very simple. I guess I had an epiphany - I imagined myself in a scenario where my life or my family's life is in danger. If something were to happen to one of my family members, and I (firearms instructor, capable marksman) didn't have a weapon and wasn't able to do anything, I would never be able to forgive myself for not trying.
That's it - very easy to understand. I carry, all the time. Not because I'm paranoid, not because I want to feel like a badass, but because I love my family that much.
Be safe, be responsible, and be vigilant.
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
Carry Pistols
First off, let me say that I should have titled this Carry "Weapon" instead of "Pistol". Let me explain why - In the military, it is a weapon. In NRA instruction, I use the word Pistol or Revolver. In teaching kids in 4H, it is NEVER a weapon, but is supposed to be referred to as a "gun". Revolver people will get upset if I call a revolver a pistol, and I certainly wouldn't refer to a 1911 as a revolver. Anyone that worked with a Drill Sargent in the past will know better than to use the word gun! In all honesty, I've taught myself to not call it a weapon, which is hard to do when Uncle Sam has brainwashed me to say weapon!
The pistol is whatever you want to call it. In fact, it is simply a tool. A tool to do a job. A tool that one must LEARN to use safely, efficiently, and accurately. This applies to all scenarios - hunting, target practice, and self defense. Learn safety, efficiency, and accuracy and you will succeed in any scenario, with any tool.
On my side right now, is one of my favorite tools. A Sig Sauer P238. (I can hear the sighs and complaints from my 45ACP loving friends now - I'll explain later). No, this wouldn't be my choice if I were in a gun fight, but is what I have - on my side - right now. It's still t-shirt weather around here, and I just can't find a way to conceal my 1911. I would much rather be carrying my old faithful, but I just can't do it comfortably and keep it concealed.
Here is my criteria for a carry weapon:
Must be well practiced with and familiar.
Must be reliable.
Must be easy to conceal.
Must be effective.
Lets start with well practiced and familiar. What I'm saying here is that if you're going to carry it, you better know it - and well. I have trained for years with a 1911 platform. It would be ridiculous of me to grab a revolver out of the safe and carry it. Probably the same with a Glock. Even though the revolver or Glock would work well, I am not so practiced with them to be able to use them without "thinking". If the need ever arises, you will always revert back to your training. Your training should develop muscle memory and be completely automatic. I know from shooting the Glock that I want to reach with my thumb to wipe off the safety that is non-existent, an act that could take precious seconds away from my advantage. My grip on a revolver would not be correct because I practice so much with a semi-auto. I also practice a lot with my little Sig. More rounds downrange means more hits on target. I am familiar with it's controls because they are the same as a 1911, and I carry cocked and locked (which is just as safe as a Glock or revolver).
Must be reliable. This should be very obvious, but what exactly does reliable mean? Reliable to me is little or no failures. Anything mechanical can - and will - fail. All I can do is pick a firearm that works best, and maintain it. This little Sig has over 1,000 rounds through it with NO malfunctions. I consider that reliable enough. Will it jam the next time I shoot it? Maybe. Which is why practice comes into play again. Practice clearing a malfunction is required practice for anyone carrying any type of handgun. Even revolvers can and will fail.
Must be easy to conceal. Ok, this is where I can say I carry a .380 (and justify it). According to Jeff Cooper, and any other decent instructor, a pistol is nothing more than a tool to get you to your rifle. A pistol is NOT a combat weapon, and was never intended to be one. I carry the .380 simply because I have found no good way to carry my 1911. I have purchased way too many holsters - belt slides, inside the pants, small of back, ankle, and on, and on. I have tried the Crossbreeds and they are really nice, but they just don't work for me. My body type (fat) just won't work for an inside the pants holster, even with the little Sig. It is just too uncomfortable, and I don't like the bulge in my side. Plus, I drive a lot, and I just can't get comfortable in the truck with a seatbelt and gun digging into me. I loved wearing an ankle holster and found it very comfortable, but I just don't think I can draw fast enough. What has happened is I've had to change the way I dress. In the warmer months, I find I can comfortably carry the Sig on a High Noon belt holster with only a t-shirt covering it. Can't do that with the 1911. In the winter, I'm back to the 1911, again on a belt holster, with a sweatshirt or light jacket covering it. I have no good advice for anyone wanting a holster, other than do like everyone else and keep trying until you find what works best for you. I've decided to keep it simple - the old fashioned belt slide works for me, and I have a whole bunch of used holsters that didn't work for me if anyone is interested!
I do not believe in open carry for a number of reasons, and advertising that you have a weapon is making you the first target to a bad guy. Better advice is to keep it hidden. Think about this scenario: You are standing in line at the bank, when four guys carrying full auto MP5's come walking in to rob the place. You are carrying your super-duper-high-power-super-fast-super gun. What do you do? I can guarantee in most cases, pulling your super-duper pistol will get you and possibly others killed. Do you really think you could win that gun fight? Not likely. My course of action would be really simple - do what I'm told and try my damnedest not to reveal that I have a gun. I'll be very happy to give you my wallet and whatever else you want. (Now if you are threatening my family, and they are in imminent danger, I might be willing to dance - even though I would lose - but that's a different scenario). Having your weapon exposed only makes you a target. Worse, having an open carried weapon may give a bad guy a reason to try to take your weapon, and let's be honest about it - could you really fight off an attacker trying to get your weapon? I have done the training, and let me tell you that it is not easy. Weapon retention is taught to law enforcement, and it still happens to them more often than it should. Do you really want to trust your life or someone else's to YOUR ability to retain your handgun? Not me.
Must be effective. As mentioned above, a pistol is a tool to get you back to your rifle. I have my HD shotgun stashed and ready at home. I also carry an M4 (copy) in my truck. If SHTF, my pistol is to get me to cover, and my rifle/shotgun/whatever. Would the 1911 in .45 be better than my tiny little .380? Of course it would. Even a 9mm would be better in most cases. The problem is, I just can't carry the 1911 comfortably in the summer, and before I purchased the baby Sig, I left my 1911 at home or in the truck. Obviously it was worthless unless I had it all the time. Is the .380 sufficient for self defense? My answer is yes - very effective. The eskimos use .22LR for taking big game animals. I've seen Alaskan natives take caribou with an AR15 in 5.56. It's all about bullet placement, which again means PRACTICE! Would I feel comfortable carrying a .22LR? Probably not, but it would certainly be better than my pocket knife.
If we look at effectiveness, we also have to look at ammo selection. I carry only Buffalo Bore 100 gr. hard cast lead in my baby Sig. I want as much power and penetration as possible in this tiny little gun. I feel just as comfortable with this .380 as I would with a 9mm, even though the 9mm is considered minimum defense caliber to most "experts". A well placed bullet will stop any attacker, but remember that it must be well placed. The Buffalo Bore +P is at 1200 fps and 300 ft/lbs muzzle energy. This is close to the performance of Federal's 9mm 115gr JHP at 1180fps/356ft/lbs, but with a hard cast bullet. No, it's not 9mm +P, but again, it's better than my pocket knife. I know there are more potent loads out there for 9mm, but I'm just comparing to show that the little .380 can come "close" to 9mm performance with the right ammo.
In summary, I have found that having a pistol is better than not having a pistol. Being comfortable carrying is absolutely necessary. A pistol is a way for me to get back to my rifle/shotgun. Practice is paramount to any success. And, having a good quality, reliable pistol with good quality reliable ammo is absolutely required.
Maybe a LAW rocket would be great for self defense, but if you can't conceal it and carry it comfortably, and use it effectively, it is useless.
So, if you want to make fun of me for carrying my little mouse gun in the summer, go ahead.
The pistol is whatever you want to call it. In fact, it is simply a tool. A tool to do a job. A tool that one must LEARN to use safely, efficiently, and accurately. This applies to all scenarios - hunting, target practice, and self defense. Learn safety, efficiency, and accuracy and you will succeed in any scenario, with any tool.
On my side right now, is one of my favorite tools. A Sig Sauer P238. (I can hear the sighs and complaints from my 45ACP loving friends now - I'll explain later). No, this wouldn't be my choice if I were in a gun fight, but is what I have - on my side - right now. It's still t-shirt weather around here, and I just can't find a way to conceal my 1911. I would much rather be carrying my old faithful, but I just can't do it comfortably and keep it concealed.
Here is my criteria for a carry weapon:
Must be well practiced with and familiar.
Must be reliable.
Must be easy to conceal.
Must be effective.
Lets start with well practiced and familiar. What I'm saying here is that if you're going to carry it, you better know it - and well. I have trained for years with a 1911 platform. It would be ridiculous of me to grab a revolver out of the safe and carry it. Probably the same with a Glock. Even though the revolver or Glock would work well, I am not so practiced with them to be able to use them without "thinking". If the need ever arises, you will always revert back to your training. Your training should develop muscle memory and be completely automatic. I know from shooting the Glock that I want to reach with my thumb to wipe off the safety that is non-existent, an act that could take precious seconds away from my advantage. My grip on a revolver would not be correct because I practice so much with a semi-auto. I also practice a lot with my little Sig. More rounds downrange means more hits on target. I am familiar with it's controls because they are the same as a 1911, and I carry cocked and locked (which is just as safe as a Glock or revolver).
Must be reliable. This should be very obvious, but what exactly does reliable mean? Reliable to me is little or no failures. Anything mechanical can - and will - fail. All I can do is pick a firearm that works best, and maintain it. This little Sig has over 1,000 rounds through it with NO malfunctions. I consider that reliable enough. Will it jam the next time I shoot it? Maybe. Which is why practice comes into play again. Practice clearing a malfunction is required practice for anyone carrying any type of handgun. Even revolvers can and will fail.
Must be easy to conceal. Ok, this is where I can say I carry a .380 (and justify it). According to Jeff Cooper, and any other decent instructor, a pistol is nothing more than a tool to get you to your rifle. A pistol is NOT a combat weapon, and was never intended to be one. I carry the .380 simply because I have found no good way to carry my 1911. I have purchased way too many holsters - belt slides, inside the pants, small of back, ankle, and on, and on. I have tried the Crossbreeds and they are really nice, but they just don't work for me. My body type (fat) just won't work for an inside the pants holster, even with the little Sig. It is just too uncomfortable, and I don't like the bulge in my side. Plus, I drive a lot, and I just can't get comfortable in the truck with a seatbelt and gun digging into me. I loved wearing an ankle holster and found it very comfortable, but I just don't think I can draw fast enough. What has happened is I've had to change the way I dress. In the warmer months, I find I can comfortably carry the Sig on a High Noon belt holster with only a t-shirt covering it. Can't do that with the 1911. In the winter, I'm back to the 1911, again on a belt holster, with a sweatshirt or light jacket covering it. I have no good advice for anyone wanting a holster, other than do like everyone else and keep trying until you find what works best for you. I've decided to keep it simple - the old fashioned belt slide works for me, and I have a whole bunch of used holsters that didn't work for me if anyone is interested!
I do not believe in open carry for a number of reasons, and advertising that you have a weapon is making you the first target to a bad guy. Better advice is to keep it hidden. Think about this scenario: You are standing in line at the bank, when four guys carrying full auto MP5's come walking in to rob the place. You are carrying your super-duper-high-power-super-fast-super gun. What do you do? I can guarantee in most cases, pulling your super-duper pistol will get you and possibly others killed. Do you really think you could win that gun fight? Not likely. My course of action would be really simple - do what I'm told and try my damnedest not to reveal that I have a gun. I'll be very happy to give you my wallet and whatever else you want. (Now if you are threatening my family, and they are in imminent danger, I might be willing to dance - even though I would lose - but that's a different scenario). Having your weapon exposed only makes you a target. Worse, having an open carried weapon may give a bad guy a reason to try to take your weapon, and let's be honest about it - could you really fight off an attacker trying to get your weapon? I have done the training, and let me tell you that it is not easy. Weapon retention is taught to law enforcement, and it still happens to them more often than it should. Do you really want to trust your life or someone else's to YOUR ability to retain your handgun? Not me.
Must be effective. As mentioned above, a pistol is a tool to get you back to your rifle. I have my HD shotgun stashed and ready at home. I also carry an M4 (copy) in my truck. If SHTF, my pistol is to get me to cover, and my rifle/shotgun/whatever. Would the 1911 in .45 be better than my tiny little .380? Of course it would. Even a 9mm would be better in most cases. The problem is, I just can't carry the 1911 comfortably in the summer, and before I purchased the baby Sig, I left my 1911 at home or in the truck. Obviously it was worthless unless I had it all the time. Is the .380 sufficient for self defense? My answer is yes - very effective. The eskimos use .22LR for taking big game animals. I've seen Alaskan natives take caribou with an AR15 in 5.56. It's all about bullet placement, which again means PRACTICE! Would I feel comfortable carrying a .22LR? Probably not, but it would certainly be better than my pocket knife.
If we look at effectiveness, we also have to look at ammo selection. I carry only Buffalo Bore 100 gr. hard cast lead in my baby Sig. I want as much power and penetration as possible in this tiny little gun. I feel just as comfortable with this .380 as I would with a 9mm, even though the 9mm is considered minimum defense caliber to most "experts". A well placed bullet will stop any attacker, but remember that it must be well placed. The Buffalo Bore +P is at 1200 fps and 300 ft/lbs muzzle energy. This is close to the performance of Federal's 9mm 115gr JHP at 1180fps/356ft/lbs, but with a hard cast bullet. No, it's not 9mm +P, but again, it's better than my pocket knife. I know there are more potent loads out there for 9mm, but I'm just comparing to show that the little .380 can come "close" to 9mm performance with the right ammo.
In summary, I have found that having a pistol is better than not having a pistol. Being comfortable carrying is absolutely necessary. A pistol is a way for me to get back to my rifle/shotgun. Practice is paramount to any success. And, having a good quality, reliable pistol with good quality reliable ammo is absolutely required.
Maybe a LAW rocket would be great for self defense, but if you can't conceal it and carry it comfortably, and use it effectively, it is useless.
So, if you want to make fun of me for carrying my little mouse gun in the summer, go ahead.
Friday, September 7, 2012
THE HAND CANNON
Well, here it is:
Ruger Super Redhawk 44 Magnum. 7-1/2" barrel.
And here's what I've done:
Wilson Combat trigger return spring
Wilson Combat main spring
Hogue "Tamer" grips
Original Ruger 1" Rings
UltraDot 1" red dot
Speedloader
Uncle Mikes Bandolier Holster
....and WAY too much money on 44 Mag ammo for practice!
I think I've got it where I want it now, but that's what I said about my truck, and that was last year and a lot of dollars ago!
It came to me gently used, in the original box with all the papers and the scope rings. My first impression was wow - this thing is HUGE (not something I hear very often). This is a massive pistol. And I do mean massive. In this case, massive means not only heavy, but strong. The next thing I noticed was what a HORRIBLE trigger it had. Granted, it hadn't been shot much, if at all, but still this was one of the worst triggers I'd ever seen. Being a single action (1911) guy, the single action pull on this was way too hard, creepy, scratchy, and just plain ridiculous - again, consider I'm used to custom triggers on 1911's.
As soon as I got it home, I had to shoot it. First shot, I'll admit, was a surprise. Being used to 45ACP, this thing had a LOT more recoil. Not so harsh as to be uncomfortable, but definitely more, and a different "feel". Recoil was more up and back, and I can't hold it like a 1911 to keep the muzzle down. Once I learned to have a good solid grip and to "roll" with it, I started to shoot somewhat of a group.
Group sizes were NOT what I expected, and honestly I wasn't real happy with my purchase. As a trapshooter, I've learned to make excuses and blame it on the gun, but I just wasn't happy with making excuses this time!
First off, my middle finger was getting smacked by the trigger guard - bad. Big bruise later on that day, which I'm sure caused a flinch. Something had to be done immediately, so I went to a glove. That seemed to help.
Next, I got a taste of my own medicine. While coaching or instructing, I always tell a shooter that if he is having a bad day/round/etc., go BACK TO THE BASICS - stance, grip, sight picture, breathing, trigger squeeze. Amazing. I started to get decent groups! It was almost like learning to shoot again.
Stance - I found out that my modified Weaver stance just doesn't work well for this revolver. I can't get my hands positioned correctly, and it's a HEAVY pistol. So I went to isosceles stance.
Grip - as mentioned, the semi-auto 1911 grip just doesn't work. you have to wrap your hands around this beast.
Sight Picture - I guess I really was NOT focusing on the front sight. That may have been due to the pounding my middle finger was taking, or the new-ness of the heavy recoil. Either way, when I truly focused on the front sight - instant gratification.
Breath Control - Funny how it is so easy to forget this one!
Trigger Squeeze - This turned out to be one of the two most important with this gun. Even though it was a horrible trigger, if I truly concentrated my groups improved.
Overall, if I consciously focused on front sight, breath, and squeeze, my groups got really small - really fast.
Now that I had the basics down, it was time to focus on the pistol. First stop - Amazon.com. For those of you who don't know, Amazon has a lot of "gun stuff" hidden away, you just have to search for it. And, if you get Amazon Prime, it's free two-day shipping. No more long waits for the Brown Truck of Happiness!
First was the grips. I ordered the Hogue "tamer" style grips. This grip has a sort of "gel" insert running down the inside of the "back strap". This was not only a significant improvement on feel, but my middle finger is very happy now that it's not getting beat like a red-headed step-child. Installation was fairly easy - remove old grip (don't lose the pin!), install the little bracket, slip on the grip, install screw into bottom of grip to the bracket. These really helped - not only in felt recoil, but just overall comfort.
Next was to fix the horrible trigger. Brownell's has a Wilson Combat "kit" that includes a number of different strength springs for the hammer and trigger return. I went with the stock strength on the main, and a 10# on the trigger return. I did this because I really don't plan on shooting it double action. Installation was VERY easy with only a screwdriver and the Ruger-supplied "pin" in the original grips. All you have to do is take the pistol apart following Rugers directions. Remove grip, cock hammer, inset pin into hammer spring, remove hammer spring. Remove trigger group as per Ruger's instruction. Remove stock trigger return spring, replace with new spring, replace trigger group.
Now for the hammer spring - using a standard kitchen fork, release the pressure on the pin, keeping it under control so it doesn't hit you in the face (you have safety glasses on, right?) or fly across the room. Remove spring, re-install new spring in reverse. Put everything back together and test fire.
I have read that the lighter hammer spring can cause light primer strikes, so I highly recommend testing with the brand/type of ammo that you will be using. I have not encountered this problem, but did not install a lighter hammer spring.
Overall, I'm very happy with the spring kit. It cost less than $20, and took less than a half hour to install. Now the trigger is really nice. It's still not a S&W Model 29, but it's a LOT better than it was.
On sight picture, one of my biggest concerns was the time it took me to really concentrate on the sights to get a good group. I thought about scopes, but have never been a big fan of handgun scopes. I have a cheap red-dot on my "late night kill a coon in the chicken coop" pistol, but never considered a magnified scope. For my use - primarily hog and deer hunting - I can't see a benefit to a magnified scope. Deer hunting in Indiana is typically less than 50 yards, and hitting a moving target (hog) with a scope has to be very difficult. I haven't done it, but I just feel the red dot with both eyes open makes a lot more sense for me, YMMV.
I researched the internet experts pages as much as possible, and found the UltraDot to be the one that everyone liked the most. Ordered it from Natchez, installed it the next week. I won't look back now! All of the need to focus on the sight picture is gone. Now I just put the dot where I want it, and focus on the trigger. What I've done, is basically eliminated one of the basic steps, allowing me to concentrate on the other basics.
My groups went from around 6-8" at 25 yards to 3-4" at 25 yards on paper targets. I'm shooting even better at "objects". Swing-type targets at 25-75 yards are now just plain easy. Tin cans at 75-100 have no chance against me! I really want to try at 100-200 yards, but for now I'll practice at the 25 yard line for the upcoming hunt. As a side note, I've always shot better at "real" targets than paper targets. I can't explain it other than I don't focus on sight picture enough with a paper target. I've always been that way, even back as a kid shooting competition muzzleloader. I did ok on paper, but really did well at the primitive type shoots...
With all the work, I've put about $700 total in this pistol, and it really should be a hunting BEAST. I now absolutely love to shoot it, and have over 500 rounds through it in just a couple of weeks. It's just plain fun to shoot now.
Next project - buy 44 mag/special dies for my press. Local price for a box of 50, cheap Winchester, is $44!!!
Ruger Super Redhawk 44 Magnum. 7-1/2" barrel.
And here's what I've done:
Wilson Combat trigger return spring
Wilson Combat main spring
Hogue "Tamer" grips
Original Ruger 1" Rings
UltraDot 1" red dot
Speedloader
Uncle Mikes Bandolier Holster
....and WAY too much money on 44 Mag ammo for practice!
I think I've got it where I want it now, but that's what I said about my truck, and that was last year and a lot of dollars ago!
It came to me gently used, in the original box with all the papers and the scope rings. My first impression was wow - this thing is HUGE (not something I hear very often). This is a massive pistol. And I do mean massive. In this case, massive means not only heavy, but strong. The next thing I noticed was what a HORRIBLE trigger it had. Granted, it hadn't been shot much, if at all, but still this was one of the worst triggers I'd ever seen. Being a single action (1911) guy, the single action pull on this was way too hard, creepy, scratchy, and just plain ridiculous - again, consider I'm used to custom triggers on 1911's.
As soon as I got it home, I had to shoot it. First shot, I'll admit, was a surprise. Being used to 45ACP, this thing had a LOT more recoil. Not so harsh as to be uncomfortable, but definitely more, and a different "feel". Recoil was more up and back, and I can't hold it like a 1911 to keep the muzzle down. Once I learned to have a good solid grip and to "roll" with it, I started to shoot somewhat of a group.
Group sizes were NOT what I expected, and honestly I wasn't real happy with my purchase. As a trapshooter, I've learned to make excuses and blame it on the gun, but I just wasn't happy with making excuses this time!
First off, my middle finger was getting smacked by the trigger guard - bad. Big bruise later on that day, which I'm sure caused a flinch. Something had to be done immediately, so I went to a glove. That seemed to help.
Next, I got a taste of my own medicine. While coaching or instructing, I always tell a shooter that if he is having a bad day/round/etc., go BACK TO THE BASICS - stance, grip, sight picture, breathing, trigger squeeze. Amazing. I started to get decent groups! It was almost like learning to shoot again.
Stance - I found out that my modified Weaver stance just doesn't work well for this revolver. I can't get my hands positioned correctly, and it's a HEAVY pistol. So I went to isosceles stance.
Grip - as mentioned, the semi-auto 1911 grip just doesn't work. you have to wrap your hands around this beast.
Sight Picture - I guess I really was NOT focusing on the front sight. That may have been due to the pounding my middle finger was taking, or the new-ness of the heavy recoil. Either way, when I truly focused on the front sight - instant gratification.
Breath Control - Funny how it is so easy to forget this one!
Trigger Squeeze - This turned out to be one of the two most important with this gun. Even though it was a horrible trigger, if I truly concentrated my groups improved.
Overall, if I consciously focused on front sight, breath, and squeeze, my groups got really small - really fast.
Now that I had the basics down, it was time to focus on the pistol. First stop - Amazon.com. For those of you who don't know, Amazon has a lot of "gun stuff" hidden away, you just have to search for it. And, if you get Amazon Prime, it's free two-day shipping. No more long waits for the Brown Truck of Happiness!
First was the grips. I ordered the Hogue "tamer" style grips. This grip has a sort of "gel" insert running down the inside of the "back strap". This was not only a significant improvement on feel, but my middle finger is very happy now that it's not getting beat like a red-headed step-child. Installation was fairly easy - remove old grip (don't lose the pin!), install the little bracket, slip on the grip, install screw into bottom of grip to the bracket. These really helped - not only in felt recoil, but just overall comfort.
Next was to fix the horrible trigger. Brownell's has a Wilson Combat "kit" that includes a number of different strength springs for the hammer and trigger return. I went with the stock strength on the main, and a 10# on the trigger return. I did this because I really don't plan on shooting it double action. Installation was VERY easy with only a screwdriver and the Ruger-supplied "pin" in the original grips. All you have to do is take the pistol apart following Rugers directions. Remove grip, cock hammer, inset pin into hammer spring, remove hammer spring. Remove trigger group as per Ruger's instruction. Remove stock trigger return spring, replace with new spring, replace trigger group.
Now for the hammer spring - using a standard kitchen fork, release the pressure on the pin, keeping it under control so it doesn't hit you in the face (you have safety glasses on, right?) or fly across the room. Remove spring, re-install new spring in reverse. Put everything back together and test fire.
I have read that the lighter hammer spring can cause light primer strikes, so I highly recommend testing with the brand/type of ammo that you will be using. I have not encountered this problem, but did not install a lighter hammer spring.
Overall, I'm very happy with the spring kit. It cost less than $20, and took less than a half hour to install. Now the trigger is really nice. It's still not a S&W Model 29, but it's a LOT better than it was.
On sight picture, one of my biggest concerns was the time it took me to really concentrate on the sights to get a good group. I thought about scopes, but have never been a big fan of handgun scopes. I have a cheap red-dot on my "late night kill a coon in the chicken coop" pistol, but never considered a magnified scope. For my use - primarily hog and deer hunting - I can't see a benefit to a magnified scope. Deer hunting in Indiana is typically less than 50 yards, and hitting a moving target (hog) with a scope has to be very difficult. I haven't done it, but I just feel the red dot with both eyes open makes a lot more sense for me, YMMV.
I researched the internet experts pages as much as possible, and found the UltraDot to be the one that everyone liked the most. Ordered it from Natchez, installed it the next week. I won't look back now! All of the need to focus on the sight picture is gone. Now I just put the dot where I want it, and focus on the trigger. What I've done, is basically eliminated one of the basic steps, allowing me to concentrate on the other basics.
My groups went from around 6-8" at 25 yards to 3-4" at 25 yards on paper targets. I'm shooting even better at "objects". Swing-type targets at 25-75 yards are now just plain easy. Tin cans at 75-100 have no chance against me! I really want to try at 100-200 yards, but for now I'll practice at the 25 yard line for the upcoming hunt. As a side note, I've always shot better at "real" targets than paper targets. I can't explain it other than I don't focus on sight picture enough with a paper target. I've always been that way, even back as a kid shooting competition muzzleloader. I did ok on paper, but really did well at the primitive type shoots...
With all the work, I've put about $700 total in this pistol, and it really should be a hunting BEAST. I now absolutely love to shoot it, and have over 500 rounds through it in just a couple of weeks. It's just plain fun to shoot now.
Next project - buy 44 mag/special dies for my press. Local price for a box of 50, cheap Winchester, is $44!!!
Pictures from Previous Posts
Here's a couple of pictures of the new revolvers....
 |
| Pre-Model 10, Left Side |
 |
| Pre-Model 10 Right Side |
 |
| K-22 Masterpiece, 1979 Model |
Ruger Super Redhawk .44 Magnum
So I get a call from my buddy John. He says something like "I'm going on a hog hunt would you like to....". As soon as I heard that portion of the conversation, I said - HELL yes!
Then, I realized that I not only was getting to go to Oklahoma to hog hunt, but I also had an excuse to buy a new toy! Living in Indiana - land of slug guns for deer - and no other big game to hunt, I was fairly limited in my arsenal for hog hunting. Now, I'm sure my Garand or my M1A would work ok, but they are both set up for high power match, and they are HEAVY. I'm told that .223 is really too small, so the M4 is out unless I put another upper on it, and that's not appealing to me right now simply because the M4's I have are set up for "farm defense" and I really don't want to change that. I could pull out the muzzleloaders, but I'm not really feeling it. Then I've got an old Winchester 94 in 30-30. I pulled it out, looked at it, and put it back in the safe. It's just too purty to put out in the woods and brush, and besides, she's old and belonged to a good friend's grandfather (he needed cash, and I am keeping it for him until he can buy it back from me).
So, I was in the relatively pleasant situation of "needing" a new gun. I narrowed it down to either a revolver in .44 or .454, or a lever gun in 45-70. Revolver, simply because I don't own a big bore revolver, and I've had a lot of fun with my black powder revolvers. A lever gun, because isn't that what you are SUPPOSED to hunt with out west? And, I don't own a 45-70 in anything and really like the under-appreciated round mostly from an historic standpoint. Off shopping I go...
First stop, local Gander Mountain. Not that I'm a huge fan of theirs, but they do have a large selection of used firearms, and most of the neat little gun shops around here don't have what I'm looking for in a used firearm. Gander did have a 45-70 in a Marlin, but at $800 used, I thought I'd pass. Next to the pistol counter. They had a beautiful S&W M29, but it was even more money. Nothing else besides the Taurus in .44 mag - and I've "been there, done that". I won't get into it, but lets just say I wasn't particularly pleased and sold it within a week of owning that POS.
I took a venture onto gunbroker.com, and found a really nice looking Super Redhawk, still under auction, and at $500. 7 1/2" barrel, original box/papers/scope rings. Then found the bonus - it was for sale at a gun shop within 30 miles. Not being a huge fan of buying a firearm without personally inspecting it, I drove down to the shop that day, and came home with a SRH.
Now, this isn't to say that I'm NOT still in the market for a Guide Gun in 45-70, but the budget is gone - for now!
First impressions and set up on the SRH in the next blog entry...
Then, I realized that I not only was getting to go to Oklahoma to hog hunt, but I also had an excuse to buy a new toy! Living in Indiana - land of slug guns for deer - and no other big game to hunt, I was fairly limited in my arsenal for hog hunting. Now, I'm sure my Garand or my M1A would work ok, but they are both set up for high power match, and they are HEAVY. I'm told that .223 is really too small, so the M4 is out unless I put another upper on it, and that's not appealing to me right now simply because the M4's I have are set up for "farm defense" and I really don't want to change that. I could pull out the muzzleloaders, but I'm not really feeling it. Then I've got an old Winchester 94 in 30-30. I pulled it out, looked at it, and put it back in the safe. It's just too purty to put out in the woods and brush, and besides, she's old and belonged to a good friend's grandfather (he needed cash, and I am keeping it for him until he can buy it back from me).
So, I was in the relatively pleasant situation of "needing" a new gun. I narrowed it down to either a revolver in .44 or .454, or a lever gun in 45-70. Revolver, simply because I don't own a big bore revolver, and I've had a lot of fun with my black powder revolvers. A lever gun, because isn't that what you are SUPPOSED to hunt with out west? And, I don't own a 45-70 in anything and really like the under-appreciated round mostly from an historic standpoint. Off shopping I go...
First stop, local Gander Mountain. Not that I'm a huge fan of theirs, but they do have a large selection of used firearms, and most of the neat little gun shops around here don't have what I'm looking for in a used firearm. Gander did have a 45-70 in a Marlin, but at $800 used, I thought I'd pass. Next to the pistol counter. They had a beautiful S&W M29, but it was even more money. Nothing else besides the Taurus in .44 mag - and I've "been there, done that". I won't get into it, but lets just say I wasn't particularly pleased and sold it within a week of owning that POS.
I took a venture onto gunbroker.com, and found a really nice looking Super Redhawk, still under auction, and at $500. 7 1/2" barrel, original box/papers/scope rings. Then found the bonus - it was for sale at a gun shop within 30 miles. Not being a huge fan of buying a firearm without personally inspecting it, I drove down to the shop that day, and came home with a SRH.
Now, this isn't to say that I'm NOT still in the market for a Guide Gun in 45-70, but the budget is gone - for now!
First impressions and set up on the SRH in the next blog entry...
I'm back. It's been a while since I've posted my one and only entry, but that is about to change.
I've added a couple of new firearms - two (pre) Model 10 S&W's, a S&W K-22 Masterpiece, and a Ruger Super Redhawk for an upcoming hog hunt with my good friend in Oklahoma. I've done a lot with the SRH, and will write about it on the next post.
I recently purchased two of what appear to be pre-Model 10, 5-screw S&W revolvers in .38 special. Not for any reason in particular, but it was a good deal and these are neat little pistols. I've never been a huge wheelgun fan, but I have to admit that the wheelgun is quickly gaining favor in my safe. I guess it's for the same reason I still wear a mechanical watch but carry around a new Motorola Razr - or drive a big V8 Hemi truck with a built in hard drive for my mp3's. While I'm still amazed at how far I've seen technology advance in my lifetime, I still appreciate the mechanical things - and the people who design, build, and use them. I'm still not practiced enough or competent and confident enough to carry a wheelgun for self defense. I'm just too set in my 1911 style firearms to make the change.
One of the Smith M10s has been chrome plated, probably not by S&W. I really can't be sure, but the serial number is a 6-digit, starting with the number "2". It also has a "C" in front of the serial number. I'm pretty sure that it's pre WWII, but I haven't been able to find a source to figure out the exact year. It is a nice looking little pistol with a 4" barrel and came with some old Franzite imitation plastic stag horn grips. They are about the ugliest grips I've ever seen and were removed quickly! This one has a large S&W logo on the right side.
The other M10 is blue, and at least appears to be older. The ejector rod is more "round" at the end, and there is only a small S&W logo on the left side. On the right side, there is nothing more than "MADE IN U.S.A." stamped into it. It also is a 6-digit serial number, followed by a star. The barrel is a 4", but appears to have been cut down judging from the missing letters and numbers that are now under the fixed front sight. I'm told that the star in the serial number indicates that it was sent back to S&W for work. When I purchased this one, the cylinder would not open and was locked up tight. I assumed it was dirty or rusted - or both.
I later found out that it was the ejector rod. It seems that over time these old ejector rods tend to come loose, locking up the cylinder. As opposed to the newer S&W, it does not have a left-hand thread, and just needed tightened down. The finish is OK, but not the greatest. I'll do a little polishing and cleaning, but probably won't do any more than that.
I did have a chance to shoot the chrome revolver before loaning it to a relative for home security (I know, not the best HD firearm, but it makes sense in this case). I was amazed at how accurate the fixed sights were, and how "easy" it was to shoot. They are both very finely made pistols, and the craftsmanship is way beyond today's standards. I realize that neither one is probably worth anything to speak of, but to me they have become two of my many favorites. The older blued pistol will soon be ready to shoot, and I'm really looking forward to doing a lot of plinking with it as well as using it to introduce new shooters to a caliber greater than .22.
The K-22 Masterpiece. Wow. I'd been wanting one of these for years, but never could justify spending that much money for a .22 revolver. I've already got a few .22 pistols, and use my Buckmark for pistol league. Then it happened - a friend of mine with a gunshop called and said he just got one in on trade from an estate and it had probably never been fired. I'm thinking "right, driven by a little old lady on Sundays". Then I saw it. He was correct, it had probably never been fired. After laying down what was probably too much cash for it, I filled out the 4473.
This is just a neat little pistol. I have yet to get it sighted in to really see how it does. For some reason, I can't get the rear sight down low enough. At 25 yards I'm still about 2-3" high - and that's with the rear sight down as far as it will go. For this reason, it has been sitting in my safe for quite a while now. I guess I'll take it to someone who knows Smiths better than I do (and I've never claimed to know much about revolvers!).
Which brings me to the other purchase - a Super Redhawk. Again, I'd never really been in to revolvers, and any that I'd owned I had sold or traded in on something else. Full story on the next blog entry, but needless to say, this SRH gave me the revolver "bug".
I've added a couple of new firearms - two (pre) Model 10 S&W's, a S&W K-22 Masterpiece, and a Ruger Super Redhawk for an upcoming hog hunt with my good friend in Oklahoma. I've done a lot with the SRH, and will write about it on the next post.
I recently purchased two of what appear to be pre-Model 10, 5-screw S&W revolvers in .38 special. Not for any reason in particular, but it was a good deal and these are neat little pistols. I've never been a huge wheelgun fan, but I have to admit that the wheelgun is quickly gaining favor in my safe. I guess it's for the same reason I still wear a mechanical watch but carry around a new Motorola Razr - or drive a big V8 Hemi truck with a built in hard drive for my mp3's. While I'm still amazed at how far I've seen technology advance in my lifetime, I still appreciate the mechanical things - and the people who design, build, and use them. I'm still not practiced enough or competent and confident enough to carry a wheelgun for self defense. I'm just too set in my 1911 style firearms to make the change.
One of the Smith M10s has been chrome plated, probably not by S&W. I really can't be sure, but the serial number is a 6-digit, starting with the number "2". It also has a "C" in front of the serial number. I'm pretty sure that it's pre WWII, but I haven't been able to find a source to figure out the exact year. It is a nice looking little pistol with a 4" barrel and came with some old Franzite imitation plastic stag horn grips. They are about the ugliest grips I've ever seen and were removed quickly! This one has a large S&W logo on the right side.
The other M10 is blue, and at least appears to be older. The ejector rod is more "round" at the end, and there is only a small S&W logo on the left side. On the right side, there is nothing more than "MADE IN U.S.A." stamped into it. It also is a 6-digit serial number, followed by a star. The barrel is a 4", but appears to have been cut down judging from the missing letters and numbers that are now under the fixed front sight. I'm told that the star in the serial number indicates that it was sent back to S&W for work. When I purchased this one, the cylinder would not open and was locked up tight. I assumed it was dirty or rusted - or both.
I later found out that it was the ejector rod. It seems that over time these old ejector rods tend to come loose, locking up the cylinder. As opposed to the newer S&W, it does not have a left-hand thread, and just needed tightened down. The finish is OK, but not the greatest. I'll do a little polishing and cleaning, but probably won't do any more than that.
I did have a chance to shoot the chrome revolver before loaning it to a relative for home security (I know, not the best HD firearm, but it makes sense in this case). I was amazed at how accurate the fixed sights were, and how "easy" it was to shoot. They are both very finely made pistols, and the craftsmanship is way beyond today's standards. I realize that neither one is probably worth anything to speak of, but to me they have become two of my many favorites. The older blued pistol will soon be ready to shoot, and I'm really looking forward to doing a lot of plinking with it as well as using it to introduce new shooters to a caliber greater than .22.
The K-22 Masterpiece. Wow. I'd been wanting one of these for years, but never could justify spending that much money for a .22 revolver. I've already got a few .22 pistols, and use my Buckmark for pistol league. Then it happened - a friend of mine with a gunshop called and said he just got one in on trade from an estate and it had probably never been fired. I'm thinking "right, driven by a little old lady on Sundays". Then I saw it. He was correct, it had probably never been fired. After laying down what was probably too much cash for it, I filled out the 4473.
This is just a neat little pistol. I have yet to get it sighted in to really see how it does. For some reason, I can't get the rear sight down low enough. At 25 yards I'm still about 2-3" high - and that's with the rear sight down as far as it will go. For this reason, it has been sitting in my safe for quite a while now. I guess I'll take it to someone who knows Smiths better than I do (and I've never claimed to know much about revolvers!).
Which brings me to the other purchase - a Super Redhawk. Again, I'd never really been in to revolvers, and any that I'd owned I had sold or traded in on something else. Full story on the next blog entry, but needless to say, this SRH gave me the revolver "bug".
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